LK. Michigan Fall Shore Fishing For Salmon

I do not fish from shore, as I do have a boat. For those of you that do not own one, here is an article I found written by a fisherman that certainly knows what he is talking about…..

 Bring 2 rods, 1 for spoons & 1 for cranks. For spoons (mostly 3/4oz) & large crankbaits, I use rods from 7’6″ to 9’6″ from medium to medium-heavy. For small to medium crankbaits(what i throw most of the season), again, 7’6″ to 9’6″, but in medium to medium-light. For both, I like 8’6″-9′, ideally. For reels, 2500-3000 size daiwas(=4000shimano, 35-40 quantum/pflueger capacity-wise?). No need for more than 200yds of line. Kings indeed have some power and do make some long runs, but, if your coming from saltwater, *spoiler alert*-a 5lb bonito or jack will put a 20lb Great lakes king to shame in terms of speed and power, IMO. If you cant get a(fair-hooked) fall king turned in 200yds, it may be time to buy a starter-set of clubs at Nevada Bob’s, or possibly take up bowling, and give up on the fishing thing. For line, I use mostly 10lb fireline, 15lb powerpro or tuffline, and occasionally 14lb fireline. Good compromise for strength/casting distance as these lines test way higher than their actual rating. I have taken to putting a leader on last few years, usually 15-17 fluoro, not because it gets bit more, because it lessens episodes of the line tangling with hooks, split-rings, swivels etc., and I think it adds a bit of stretch that helps keep hooks embedded. Match your rod/reel/line to the presentation, not the fish. For spoons, you want enough power to load and launch a 3/4 spoon a long ways, and to set the hook at long range. For crankbaits, enough power to launch, but also enough tip flex to load up a lighter bait when casting and to combat pulling the smaller treble hooks.
For lures, you could spend tens-of-thousands loading up on everything that could possibly work. If I were to suggest 2, it would be a 3/4oz K.O. wobbler in a glow color, and a deep jr thunderstick in glow. With that said, you could take any bait that falls within those parameters and catch fish on it. i.e.- if they’re cracking thundersticks, most likely they’ll hit a reef-runner, yozuri, shad rap or any other crank of similair depth/action. Glow colors will work fine during the day as well. For variety I’d suggest bright fluorescent colors. About glow lures, absolutely not necessary to catch fish, but, I personally feel more confident in a very dim-glowing lure at night. In keeping with that, I do not buy “super-glow” baits, or ones that glow for hours at a time. IMO, a very subtle glow will catch lots more fish than a bait thats “nuclear-bright”. With glow, less is more, IMO. I never use a flash, makes them brighter than I want, instead I’ll use my head-lamp/flashlight or phone to just barely light them up. If theres a street-light, I never bother with charging it up at all.
couple of suggestions that come to mind:
-change the hooks on all your baits right out of the package. The stock hooks are usually pure junk. I replace my spoon hooks with #1 or #2 gamakatsu trebles, and #4’s on cranks. Cost a few extra $’s, but makes a huge difference, IMO.
-use good quality ball-bearing swivels on your spoons, not the cheapies.
-when you see people hooking fish, pay less attention to the exact bait they’re using, and more attention to how they’re using it. Presentation is far more important than selection. Matching the hatch, or imitating forage is out the window with fall kings, they do not “eat” anything. Any strike you get is pure reflex and hormones.
-dont get hung-up waiting on preferred water temps/wind direction. I have had too many days over the years slamming fall kings in 75 degree,stained water to think that it matters much. When the urge hits, they are going to arrive whether the water is 55 or 75. My personal opinion is rainfall and shorter days will trigger much more activity than water temps or wind direction will.

but, then again, what the hell do I know

all I got for now…

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